journey Santiago de Chile - Puerto Montt - Ushuaia Oct 08, 1999 - Dec 30, 1999
Chile (Oct 08 - Dec 06, Dec 19 - Dec 28)
Argentina (Dec 06 - Dec 19, Dec 28 - Dec 30)
Chile: Santaigo de Chile - Viña del Mar - Reñaca - Algarroba -
El Tabo - San Antonio - San Pedro - Lago Rapel - San Vicente de Taguatagua - San Fernando -
Curicó - Talca - San Clemente - Vilches - Talca - Maule -
Colbún - Panimávida - Parral - San Carlos - Chillán - Salto El Laja - Los Angeles -
Mulchín - Viktoria - Curacautín - Malacahuello - Paso los Raíces - Lago Gallehuí -
Lago Icalma - Melipeuco - Cunco - Traulanqui - Villarica - Pucón -
Lago Caburga - Ojos Azul - Villarica - Lican Ray - Panguipulli - Los Lagos - Futrono -
Lago Ranco - Playas "San Pedro" - Los Chilcos - Osorno - Puerto Octay - Frutillar alto -
Puerto Montt - Chinco Cuesta - Pargua - Chacao - Linao - Quemchi - Dalcahue -
Castro - Chonchi - Chaiten - Villa Santa Lucia - La Junta - Puerto Puyuguapi -
Villa Amengual - Villa Mañihuales - Coyhaique - Villa Cerro Castillo - Bahia Murta -
Lago General Carrerra - Rio Tranquilo - Puerto Bertrand - Valle Chacabuco - Cochrane -
Lago Esperanza - Rio ¥andis - Puerto Vagabundo - Puerto Yungay (Rio Bravo) -
Entre Rios - El Tigre - Villa O'Higgins - Cochran - Valle Chacabuco
Argentina: Paso Roballos - Bajo Caracoles -
Hotel Las Horquetas - Tamel Aike - Riera (Rio Chico) - Lago Cardiel - Estancia
Siberia - Estancia Santa Lucia - Tres Lagos - Lago Viedma - Hotel La Leona -
Lago Argentino - El Calafate (glacier Perito Moreno) - El Cerrito - Rio Pelque -
Tapi Aike - Cancha Carrerra
Chile: Cerro Castillo - Torres del Paine - Puerto Natales -
Morro Chico - Punta Delgada - Punta Espora - Cerro Sombrero - San Sebastián
Argentina: San Sebastián - Rio Grande - Tolhuin -
Lago Fagnano - Lago Escondido - Pass Giraldi - Cerro Martial - Ushuaia
We are working! Sorry about the poor quality of the translation which was
done only by a software program and which we have not corrected so far.
Chile
We fly with Continental from Frankfurt to Newark (8h stopover) and Santiago de Chile and
arrive on Saturday morning. The travel from the airport into the city is pleasent,
after we are cycling the left lane like the Chilean, so that we avoid the buses and taxis
which stop on the right side. After sleeping about 14 hours we look for maps
(Providencia, Gral. del Canto #105 OF 1506) and visit the nice old part of the town which
is rather calm on Sunday).
First we are cycling to the coast, where we visit Christiane's former math teacher
in Viña del Mar. Viña del Mar looks a little bit like Marbella/Costa del Sol.
We stay overnight in a cabaña on the camping site in Reñarca with great view on the sea;
here we meet
the first cyclists and get some useful information.
Our way leads us via Algarroba, El Tabo, San Antonio along the Pacific coast and
San Pedro. We reach the Lago Rapel, where we spend the first night in our new tent
on a quiet camping site - at least it is tranquil until in the middle of the night
the Chilean weekend traveller fall in.
Via San Vicente de Taguatagua, San Fernando, Curicó, Talca, San Clemente we reach
Vilches in the national park Licray. In Vilches the most remarkable building is an
old hotel, but unfortunately only the walls are still standing. The hotel should
have been sold and therefore was not inhabited - time enough for the population (?!)
cleared. (This seems to usual with non inhabited houses). At the Embalse de Colbún
(dam) a large gate blocks the way. Unfortunately the dam was privatized and we are
not allowed to pass. Since we do not want to go back the same way (rather boring and
a bad road), we take a ride with a pickup back to Talca. It was then still quite
interesting, since Jorge, an architect specialized in building swimming pools,
is on his way to (wealty) clients and we can see really nice holiday houses
and pool building sites. A client invites us for a Mexican beer and
remarks "I have everything except cash!".
We are following the Panamericana via Maule, Colbún, Panimávida, Parral, San Carlos,
Chillán, Salto El Laja, Los Angeles (very strange city),
Mulchín, Viktoria. In Maule we stay overnight at a closed camping site in the middle of the
vineyards. The region around Maule and Chillán are wellknown for its vine.
The Panamericana (Routa 5) is the only direct connection from the
north to the south. Due to its good conditions we are progressing well. There are
hardly any dogs, which are following us. The only disadvantage is that there is hardly any
shadow and in parts there is much traffic and construction work. If it is windy, the wind is blowing from the south.
In Viktoria we leave the Pan-American Highway towards the Andes. After approx.
20 km we reach the "Kangaroo Lodge", a camp site owned by Inís, a Chilean, and
Jim, an Australian in the age of pension. After his opinion he will be a pensioner
if they carry him away in the coffin. The lodge is highly recommended. We are the only guests
and Jim shows us around his land.
We pass Curacautín and shortly before Malacahuello we reach the hostal "El Encuentro".
Recently the Swiss couple, Tomas and Eva with their son Dario have settled down and are running
the hostal. Tomas and Eva cycled from Alaska to Ushuaia - they liked Chile so much that
they decided to stay. We get some useful information while spending a rainy and cold day
in their house.
We cycle via Malacahuello, Paco los Raíces - with great views of the volcano Lonquimay,
completely covered by snow - to la Fusta. At a small lagoon near Lago Gallehui
we stay overnight at the Campo of Chileans. In the morning the tent is frozen.
Afterwards we continue to the Lago Icalma and downhill to Melipeuco. After Melipeuco
the dirt road is freshly made and just before Cunco Christiane falls - except scars
no permanent damages. The road continues in very poor condition passing Traulanqui to Villarica,
where we arrive in the dark. We stay in the
"Torre Suiza", a hostal run by a Swiss
couple. The Swiss started cycling in Switzerland and have remained in Chile. Wolfgang's broken
lowrider is swelt (for the first time). We are photograhed for the album - like all
cyclists staying in the "Torre Suiza".
We remain in the Chilean lake district and cycle via the very touristy Pucón to the Thermas
"Los Pozanes" - relaxing. On the next day it is rather cold and rainy and
we don't continue on the road between the volcanos. Passing Lago Caburga and the Ojos Azul
(water in deep blue colours) we cycle back to Villarica.
Via Lican Ray, Panguipulli, Los Lagos, Futrono we reach the Lago Ranco, where we
camp at the Playas "San Pedro". The next day is Christiane's birthday - a rainy day.
After missing a junction and because of the weather we cycle via Los Chilco.
Totally wet we arrive in Osorno. Unnecessarily Wolfgang had two punctures near Osorno.
In Osorno we visit the Museo Historical Municipal (museum). In the last century
many Germans settle down in the lake district.
Continuing via Puerto Octay, Frutillar alto, Puerto Montt, Chinco Cuesta and Pargua
we reach the Isla Chiloe; further over Chacao, Linao, Quemchi, Dalcahue (with good
view to the mainland and the "Carretera Austral") to Castro and Chonchi.
In Puerto Montt we are told that there are no ferries from
Quellón (Isla Chilóe) to Chaiten (mainland) at the moment, but there are ferries
in the northern Carretera Austral - only in the season ferries depart from Quellón.
Therefore after our excursion to Chilóe we wanted to go back to Puerto Montt.
During the breakfast in a hostal in Chonchi we learn that there are ferries from
Quellón and no ferries in the northern part of the Carretera Austral! Off-season the
the ferry shall departure once a week and today shall be departure at five pm.
In our travel guide another departure day is listed but the deaprture time two pm.
Therefore we hurry to Quellón. This part of the island we like most,
unfortunately we have less time. Five minutes to two pm we arrive at the port,
the ferry is still there. Since the ferry will departure and we go directly to the ship.
As turned out then, the ferry stores only at 15:00 o'clock, so that we have still time to
buy the tickets and eat something.
A more frequently occurring problem in South America is that one does not know,
whether the received information is correct, or the information-giving tells only
something. In Pucón we asked once for an Internet cafe. We were directly
beside it, did not detect it however not, since no sign or like thereupon-pointed.
After the way of in demand Chilene explained us very convincingly there, we would
have to go only one block into this direction and then to the right and already
would be we. Someone said, he did not know, where something is, we only very
rarely experienced - it is more helpful in each case.
Since we have a blind passenger on the ferry on board, we go back after one hour
travel time; the father had noticed and with a fischerboot behind the ferry had driven
in the meantime the loss of his son, so that we do not have quite back after Quell¢n.
On the ferry are still further cyclists: two Frenchmen, who want to Silvester after
Pto.Williams/Ukika radeln, and Ernst, a Swiss, who is geradelt to Hong Kong from
Switzerland and came over Australia, New Zealand, North America to South America.
By Ernst we experience, how long various wheel sections hold generally - with 80.000
geradelten kilometers it has the appropriate knowledge!
Due to the thunderstorm we regard hardly something from the country and due to the
swell to come we into Chaiten only in the dark. With the other cyclists of the ferry
we descend in the same Hospedaje, where we meet on three Radler come by the south:
Jacqueline and Irene from Switzerland, Ric from Holland.
From Chaiten it goes on the Carretera Austral direction the south. The Carretera Austral
leads by faszinierdende landscapes: Mountains, rivers, brooks, wasserfaelle, lakes,
rain forest, fjord landscape. The Chilenen is substantially more nicely as further
in the north, perhaps because of the small settlement? In Chile the Carretera Austral
pleased us best, even if it rained more frequently and the road were not always optimal.
We drive zusmmen with Ernst over mansion Santa Lucia, La junta, Puerto Puyuguapi,
mansion Amengual, mansion Mañihuales to Coyhaique. We meet the Frenchmen from
time to time.
Since Ernst wants to remain longer one day in Coyhaique, we drive alone far
to mansion Cerro Castillo (been situated in an impressive valley) and to Bahia Murta
at the north end of the Lago general Carrerra. After Coyhaique slowly the wind begins
itself to make noticeable. When buying we meet Swiss Werner, which in-loads us to itself.
Werner learned and lives the blockhouse building in Alaska in such. Since 12 years is it
in Chile and with Ninoska, a Chilenin, married (daughter Reny). We spend two days on the
remote Estancia with super view of the lake and eat for the first time " one year's
lamb ".
Far over Rio Tranquilo, Puerto Bertrand, Valle Chacabuco after Cochrane, where
wolf course again broken Lowrider is welded. The Carretera Austral is constantly
passable for October to mansion O'Higgins. Although we do not know whether we come
from mansion O'Higgins to Argentina - in Chile it continues to go not to the south - to
drive we to mansion O'Higgins. This was retrospective the most beautiful and
urspruenglichste piece of the Carretera Austral. Past to super a departure goes at
the Lago Esperanza with view of Cerro San Lorenzo, before Rio ¥andis is. In
mansion Cerro Castillo we had become acquainted with Hermann and Paul from
Kaufbeuren and in Bahia Murta had again-met. We arranged ourselves to meet
Hermann and Paul on a Estancia south of Cochrane it belong to Lili from Kaufbeuren,
an acquaintance of Hermann and Paul - so that we turn at the Rio ¥adis from the road
and drive/shift 10 kilometers into the Wildnis. With Lili and its Chilean Machomann
Rosendo we eat freshslaughtered Zieglein, drink much Mate and wait that the rain stops.
In Puerto Yungay we muesen a ferry over Rio Bravo use, on the way we had experienced
that the ferry drives once on the day at 11:00 o'clock. Since we still another good
piece are distant from the ferry and do not want a whole day to lose, we rise very
early, in order to be punctual at the ferry. After Puerto Vagabundo we erklimmen
first a mountain and rush after Puerto Yungay, where we arrive around 5 before 11.
Naturally the ferry drives only at 12:00 o'clock, since the times were modified in
the last weekend. Puerto Yungay is a military post, which operates also the ferry.
We reach 2. Breakfast loaded of nice military. On the ferry we become acquainted
with four Argentine gynecologists, who drive for fishing to mansion O'Higgins.
We experienced those of military quite friendly and helpfully: We are invited of on the
Campo of operating military to the Mate. Into the Militaercamps " Entre Rios " and " El Tigre "
we are invited to the meal. In the Militaercamp " El Tigre " are undertaken extensive
and lengthy attempts to weld wolf course again broken Lowrider - there no oxygen is
available, can be welded only electronically, the result is not not so mad.
The first night in mansion O'Higgins we stay overnight in the only Hostal (terrible),
the following nights tents we in the garden of Teresa (super nicely).
In order to come on direct way to the Routa 40 into Argentina, 3 possibilities
are to us at the disposal:
1. Paso?, over a horse way: Since us every other predicates about the quality of the
way gives - a Cerro over and several rivers to be crossed must, those at present floods to
have - is applicable this way for us not.
2. Over the Lago O'Higgins with a Chilean ferry: In former times a man drove
named Pirincho - a uriger Chilene, which we visit on its boat and drink with which
we Mate, but in the meantime it the paper stuff too much became and he does not
drive no more to Argentina. It is also an official, brand-new Chilean ferry since
some time because of the landing place, but there is still no captain.
3. Border crossing after Cocoví and further with private boat: There is a boat
that from Cocoví to a Estancia drives, of which from a way to the Routa
40 leads. The boat is used for the wood feed and drives quite irregularly.
When we are there, it drove off even one day.
In the border post Cocoví live 8 of military in each case for 3 months with
the entire supply cut off on the external world, acces of Argentina from only over boat,
since everywhere mountains are. You only possibility of meeting humans have it in Chile
in mansion O'Higgins. We are invited friendly to our first cup of Café tostada
(very much lecker).
We meet the four Frauenaezte again, which bring us to her Fischguide Carlo,
who drives on coming Saturday back to Cochrane. We decide to go back with
Carlo since we do not want to spend 2 weeks in mansion o'Higgins. Before the
completion of the road mansion was attainable o'Higgings only with a small airplane,
we has the feeling that the " civilization " arrives there only now.
Back in Cochrane we stay overnight in a Hospedaje, which is attached a baker's shop.
The bakers are very nice, invite us to the meal and we there with bread were already
very content, take we for our far journey for 5 days bread with (30 pieces). On
Sunday morning the Lowrider is again welded, which should hold this time to Bolivia
(with exception of a smaller repair in El Calafate).
After one quiescent day in Cochrane radeln we by the Valle Chacabuco direction Argentina.
We visit the Estancia Valle Chacabuco, where we cover ourselves closer explanations up
over cheese production gotten and with very much leaking rem sheep cheese. We leave
the snow-covered mountains and become green slopes of Chile. Slowly drained, brown
hills go over into quilt-like vegetation. On the way we meet Guanacos and Kondore
again and again on Ñandus.
Argentina
Over the Paso Roballos (733 m) we achieve Argentina. Ours first impression of the
Routa 40 is a partially quite bad road quality, although we always meet on road
workers, who correct the road. Per layer they operate 20 days and have afterwards
8 days freely. Meanwhile they live in campers (casillas), with the entire water
and Essvorraeten for this time. They always ausgeholfent us with water or us to
tea or Asado invited. Not to be forgotten we the eternally blowing patagonischen
wind, which almost always comes from the west and which will accompany us for the
next months. Geographically the provinces Santa Cruz, Chubut, Río Negro
and Neuquén belong to Patagonien.
Bajo Caracoles is our first Argentine village and affects us totally abandoned.
It is probable in former times an administrative center been, now is abandoned and
to the majority destroyed almost all Gebauede. We inform about the further water
places, which is very important in Patagonien.
In former times it gave 40 on the Routa many hotels for the workers of the
large Estancias, which were concluded in the meantime from economic reasons.
Slowly they open again for the tourists - an attendance is recommendable, since
the interior equipment is very interesting (e.g. hotel read Horquetas) and
around the hotels surviving to protect. The sheep breed, which was originally
the largest source of income Patagoniens, went out so well. The world price for
wool is in such a manner sank that it is not worthwhile itself any longer.
Additionally a volcanic eruption in Chile made far sections useless. We fill
up our stores of water in the Rio Olnie. Approximately around the closed, very
nicely which was situated hotel Olnie thousands of empty bottles are situated.
Today the Routa 40 is mainly traveled from tourists. Since it is still Vorsaison,
meet we per day about 1-2 auto. Once holds an auto with Italian tourists and it
offer to us water, fruit and bread - a nice variation of our food plan.
After the branching to the Parque Nacional Perito Moreno we have tail wind and
to enjoy it. The old hotel read Horquetas is again in operation, we fills up
our bread supplies and also tortas is much lecker. We occur Tamel Aike. In
former times was here a police station, which is however burned down. Today
here only a station of the DVN (Departamento Vialidad Nacional) is, which worry
about the road conservation. We drink tea and radeln far after Riera at the Rio
Chico, where from a former hotel only the " basic concrete " is. Almost windless
tents we in a Waeldchen and no water problems have.
On the next day we learn the patagonischen wind to be afraid. We have so strong
cross-wind the fact that it blows us away with the Radeln and we run approx. 15 km
which is extremely arduous. Also we can hardly inform ourselves, since the wind is
so loud. When we can again radeln, overhaul us 2 motorradfahrer, Martina and Hoefi
from Switzerland. Unfortunately we have in the evening water problems, since us
assured DVN station does not come. On the next day we occur the Lago Cardiel and
on the Estancia Siberia approx. 1 1/2 h " had breakfast " - I white not which is
worse to have hunger or over-eat total to be - the breakfast are much recommended.
We fill up our stores of water again.
After the Estancia Santa Lucia we meet Ortrud and Helmut from Munich,
which we will still repeatedly unexpectedly meet (last in Brazil). We
stay overnight together with them and DVN workers in a wind-protected
place with a small brook. In the evening the workers invite us to a
leckeren Asado and we have very much fun. Each day us the landscape
of new fascinates despite the drynesses everywhere, in the winter is
even for snow here to be appropriate - to hardly believe. After a
wonderful departure we achieve Tres Lagos on the next day and meet
on the very beautiful camping municipal
Julia and Walter
from Krapfenau
and still 2 further Swabian motorradfahrer. The Pizza in a baker's shop
is not to be despised and finite can we our bread and Essvorraete again fill up.
We break open very early, since the wind is in the morning not yet so strong. The
road is very sandig after a time, with almuerzo at the Lago the Viedma has we
super a view of the glacier Viedma and the Fitz Roy/El Chaltén massif.
We decide to there-to-ennoble not since we saw so many mountains in Chile and
the 70 kilometers against the west also to lure. A further break we insert in
the hotel La Leona, that by young people are operated and also here are the
cakes much lecker. After extremely strong wind we achieve the Lago Argentino,
where we find a campground without the many Stechpflanzen. After El Calafate
we have to fight with totally strong head wind, but the road to El Calafate
is quite again geteert. We meet again on Julia, walter, Ortrud and Helmut.
We undertake a route to the fascinating Perito Moreno glacier, the only
glacier outside of the Antarctic, which still grows. It is approx.. 14km
long, 6-8km broad and 50-55m highly. We hear to see and sections to abort
again and again. On the way we visit the very well received Estancia Anita
(of 1900), those today are still operated and we to see the large hall,
where the sheep are sheared.
In our accommodation Paso Verlika we experience also for the first time
from the present, economic problems of Argentina: many people from the
north (particularly from the provinces Tucuman, Salta or Jujuj) operate
in the season in El Calafate. Our landlady is actually a teacher, but
already some months no more content from the province government got.
Our next target is the national park Torres del Paine, who is situated
directly behind a mountain range of El Calafate. Theoretically exists
the possibility, which way over the Paso Zamora too radeln, which would
mean however an illegal entry to Chile. Since also the Argentine gendarmes
do not let us leave the country legally, we reject this idea and radeln
first with super tail wind against the east. Before El Cerrito we trefen
Torben, a totally thickly tightened and quite kaputen Radler, which we
smile at only, but later we have short time with the same problems to
fight - very cold counter and cross-wind leach out us likewise.
In El Cerrito is again a DVN station and we trefen on a building worker,
that there quite alone lives and the whole time from the window on the far
quilt stares (his only Beschaefftigung, it pleases it). The warmth can be
even observed - veils in air flicker. The distance up to the Rio Pelque is
quite laborious because of the strong counter and cross-wind and the bad
crushed stone runway. We break our tent open in Tapi Aike, a lonely police
station, where it is sensitively cold in the morning. We break open again
early, in order to have a lead over the wind. The area is abwechlungsreich -
drained hills and small river courses. We occur some Estancias and larger
cattle and herds of sheep. Frozen out and wet we achieve the border station
Cancha Carrerra (AR) and military invite us to a cup Café tostada.
We warm ourselves at the open fire-place (super), where Christiane burns
promptly its sock.
Chile
In the new border station Cerro Castillo (CH) we experience that neither
fresh Esswaren nor plants may be introduced. We, as cyclists, are searched
however not for Esswaren. The area becomes again somewhat hillier, remains
however up to the national park Torres del Paine tocken and brown. We radelten
the fastened deactivation race, unfortunately hardly see we something, since
totally bad weather is (nebulas, rains and storm). In order not to back-to-ennoble
the same way, we cross a broad river on a half destroyed bridge, which challenges
our sense of balance, and radeln a closed privatweg along the many lakes direction
Puerto Natales. We enjoy many views on the close schneebeckten mountains.
Is fascinating the contrast quilt and drynesses on the one hand and snow-covered
mountains and juicy, become green to pastures on the other hand - everything in
shortest distance.
Unfortunately the way is partly very bad, but there is at all no traffic.
Later we experience that the way should actually be opened for traffic. The
land owner received cash of the state for the maintenance of the way, but
did not prepare the way satisfyingly - for some years now a law case prevails.
The owner " diminished " the bridges partly, to our disappointment, because
we must over there-carry our wheels and the Gespaeck of wet foot.
The more near we Puerto Natales come, the more meagerly and more dryly become
the landscape. We look at the exhibition to the Cueva Milodón, a cave,
where 1895 the bones of a giant putrid animal were found (viz. Bruce Chatwin,
Patagonien). A plastic model of the animal is issued. We radeln along the
fjord Seno Ultima Esperanza (Pt.Consuelo, Pt.Prat and Bonies) after Puerto Natales.
We descend in the lodging off Patricia and if one refrains from it that the gas
disks and the furnace are used for heating, a nice accommodation. Since we have
enough from white bread, we begin to bake each day (thick) whole-meal bread. It
tastes us so well that it is sufficient in each case for day. Super a
Weihnachtsfete celebrate we with wheel-learn Marc and Francesc from Catalunya,
Oli from Mallorca, George out close-long as well as Mylène from Canada
and Patricia. In the garden crickets the Spaniards on an old bed rust kiloweise
meat, of which remains much.
The more heavily us the next day we falls breaks open direction the south.
A majority of the road is geteert and the wind blows to our favour. In
Morro Chico, a tiny village with a police station, we eat something and fill up
our stores of water, before we bend Punta Delgada from the geteerten road and
almost parallel to the Argentine-Chilean boundary direction Gallegos Chico - radeln.
On the way it is very calm, sorted sees we small foxes, Guanacos, Ñandus and
sheep, otherwise nothing as Pampa and we meets as well as no humans. We always hope
that we are still on the correct road, since on our card no places are drawn in.
Owing to the optimal tail wind we achieve Punta Delgada, the first village after
the boundary, and the ferry after Tierra del Fuego. Some Argentine LKW's and
Chilean road workers already wait for the passage. We must wait for the strong
current of the Primera Angostura (first tightness) and in such a way enter we
only against 22:00 in Punta Espora fire country, our first target.
Tierra del Fuego is situated in the extreme south of South America. Argentina
(the east) and Chile (the west) divide the island, which is limited in the north
by the Magellan route, in the east of the Atlantic and in the south of the Beaglekanal.
On the island gas occurrences to be found, those used and often seen economical we
the Abflammen that gases. The northern part of the island reminds very strongly of
the patagonische landscape, whereas the south is gebirgig and green and there are
some seas.
Unfortunately the road up to the boundary is very bad and us overhauls again and
again LKWs, which wrap us in dust. We radeln over Cerro Sombrero, the only, larger
Chilean village, Cullen, a spirit village after San Sebastián (CH). starting
from San Sebastián (AR) is geteert the road and we come owing to tail wind
very well in front to Rio Grande. Rio Grande already experienced its bloom time - oil
center, meat factories, sheep breed. After the public means were deleted, rather many
factories expired and humans pulled and move away. Up to now the privilege is received
that on alcohol and tobacco it is to be paid fewer controls and the wage tax is smaller.
In Patagonien the gasoline price is situated under the price in the remainder of
Argentina.
Suddenly the landscape changes approx. 150 km before Ushuaia. Before Tolhuin Ortrud
and Helmut overhaul us (unexpectedly) and with a cup tea and pastry experience we the
last experiences. In Tolhuin we are surrounded by mountains and the Lago Fagnano. In a
very nice Pizzeria we wait for the rainstorm with a Schopp (beer of the barrel), Pizza
and dad Fritas. Unfortunately the road is so bad that we are in-made dust again and
again by auto and LKWs. After the Lago Escondido we erklimmen the pass Giraldi
(approx. 7 km uphill). Again on geteerter road radeln we by a wonderful valley,
where in the winter langlauf and departure ski are possible, and arrive over the
Cerro Martial after Ushuaia. Ushuaia is the southernmost city of Argentina and is
because of the north bank of the Beaglekanals, designated after the ship, in which
Darwin by-applies 1832 the channel. Ours first impression is rather ernuechternd,
the view of the Beaglekanal and the opposite Isla Navarino we more impressively
introduced themselves.
Our first target is the YPF gas station, where we shower first times. In Argentina
most gas stations are equipped with showers, which costs partly nothing or only little.
Subsequently, we buy for a few days. In many travel guides Ushuaia is specified as
the most expensive city of Argentina, the supermarkets La Anonima and Tia is just
as expensive as in the remainder of Patagoniens. In the Touristoffice we unfortunately
cover ourselves up with information and radeln with rains and cold weather to the
Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego (approx. 10 km west of Ushuaia). We meet on some
motorradfahrer and living mobile from Germany, Austria, Switzerland ..., under
what also Julia and walter, Martina and Hoefi, Ortrud and Helmut were. To hardly
believe, how many people the distance Alaska - fire country put back. With cold
weather in the evening the glow wine is exactly the correct, and there is much to tell.
